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Hair Questions and Answers


Every month our professional hair consultant answers one of your questions.

If you have a hair problem, please email it to info@thehairstyler.com and the team at THS will try to solve it for you.

Back from Black
Consultation Advice
Hurry Hair Growth
Dry Hair Dilemma
Combing Confusion
Dramatic Color
Keeping Curls
Problem Part
Too Much Toning
How Do I Keep My Locks Thin?
Razor Scissors vs. Thinning Scissors
Greasy Hair or Washed Hair - Which Gives Better Shape?
Covering Blonde Foils With A Permanent Brown Color
Suddenly Oily
Problem Perm
Puffy Hair Problems
Taming Short / Fly-away Hairs
Amount of Shampoo vs. Length of Hair
Adding Spice To Red Hair
2-in-1 vs. Single Shampoo and Conditioner
Best Conditioner for Greasy Roots and Dry Ends
Blow-Dryer Attachments
Scared of Too Many Trims
Hair Styling Products vs. Heat Protection Products
Hair Color Enhancing Shampoo
Styling Advice For Shorter Hair Lengths
Frizzy and Dry Hair
Hair Loss Worries







Back from Black (July 2008)

Q  I have naturally black hair and I used to have ash brown highlights. About a year ago I decided to dye my hair back to its original black color. But recently I thought I'd like to lighten it again. First of all I tried to lighten it to a light ash brown using a 30 volume developer. The problem was my roots only lightened to a reddish brown and the rest of my hair remained dark. After that I tried lightening it with a stronger developer (a 40 volume developer), but it still didn't work. Why? I don't understand what I need to do to lighten my hair to a light brown or chestnut brown. Can you please email me some tips?

Thanks,
Lasharon

A  Hi!

There's a simple reason you're having some trouble lightening your black hair.

A rule of thumb to remember is this: artificial color cannot lighten another artificial color. In other words, if you already have artificial color in your hair, trying to lighten it with another artificial color will be useless.

In your case, you dyed your hair back to black using an artificial color. That means that by the time you decided to lighten it again, you only had a couple of inches of untreated hair at your roots (virgin color). Artificial color will only work on untreated hair, and that's the reason your roots were the only areas of you hair that lightened to a reddish brown. So no matter what strength developer you use (30 or 40 volume) it will only work on those areas of your hair that haven't been colored (your roots).

I strongly suggest you make an appointment with a hairstylist for a personal consultation. That way they will be able to closely assess your hair color and advise you about the best way to lighten your hair in its current state.

I hope I've helped with your question.

Regards,
Serah Schuster
THS Hair Consultant

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Consultation Advice (April 2008)

Q  I recently found a great new hairstyle and color on your website. I have a question though: will my hairstylist be able to make my hair look the same, especially in terms of its color? I really like how the color looks against my photo.
-Kel

A  Dear Kel,

That's a great question because it's such an important one.

TheHairStyler.com, a virtual hairstyling website, is the best way of showing your stylist what kind of hairstyle and color you'd like to achieve. To make the most out of TheHairStyler.com make sure the photo you upload is naturally lit and realistically reflects how you actually look. Once you've done this, the information you will receive is invaluable. Why? Since you can print your photo with your new virtual hairstyle and color, it's extremely hard for your stylist to misunderstand your request.

Will your stylist be able to make your hair look the same as your virtual hairstyle? Not all styles are practical for all hair types, so your stylist will explain whether it's possible to mold your hair to the shape you want. In terms of colors, these days most salons make their own. This means that getting one similar to what you are seeking should be quite simple. But in the same way that certain shapes are more suitable for certain hair types, your stylist will also explain that certain colors may or may not be suitable for your hair condition (there may be some difficulty, for example, if your hair is damaged and/or already colored).

So remember: TheHairStyler.com will give you lots of great ideas to help you effectively find a style that suits you, but it's up to your stylist to work out whether or not that style is practically achievable. Good luck!

Regards,
Roy Caccamo
THS Hair Consultant

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Hurry Hair Growth (March 2008)

Q  Hi! I'd like my hair to grow a certain length. Is there a way to make it grow faster (without having to get it cut)? Can you help me?
-Sue

A  Hi Sue! That's a great question- one that most of us can identify with I'm sure! Unfortunately, the best way to encourage your hair to grow is by trimming it every 6-8 weeks. This will help it grow longer and healthier. Also, a healthy diet encourages the hair to grow quickly; and most importantly, patience is essential. So in sum, the hair will grow (of course) but regular trims and a healthy diet will encourage growth. Hang in there!

Regards,
Serah Schuster
THS Hair Consultant

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Dry Hair Dilemma (February 2008)

Q  I get my hair colored and sometimes I get highlights, but it seems to get dry. I've tried using hair products for colored hair, and I even use conditioner every time I shampoo. Also, my hair is fine. So I think my hairstylist is using bleach. Is there a way to get the same color results without using bleach? Can you recommend anything please, like some special products etc?

A  Hi!

That's an interesting problem.

Any chemicals in the hair (bleach or color) will dry the hair out. If your stylist is using bleach, it's because she's trying to lift your present color and lighten it to a certain degree. Sometimes, depending on how much your hair needs to be lifted, it's hard to lighten it without using bleach.

Using shampoos and conditioners for chemically treated hair is a great idea, and we also recommend you apply a deep treatment at least once a week. This will strengthen the hair bonds and keep the cuticles smooth, easing dryness and frizziness.Daily moisturisers and serums are other good ideas because applying them daily also helps tackle the dryness problem. And remember: try not to straighten or blow-dry the hair too often because the heat used can dry your hair out more.

There are many products available for chemically treated hair. I would recommend visiting a hair salon and asking for products and treatments specifically for your hair type. That way, the stylists can assess your hair personally and make sure you get the correct products.

I hope I've been some help, and thanks for using THS.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Regards,
Serah Schuster
THS Hair Consultant

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Combing Confusion (January 2008)

Q  My hair stylist told me to comb my curly hair once a week only. He said to comb sections at a time and to start from the bottom and work my way up. However, I'm still not sure if I should do this when my hair is very wet, damp or dry. Can you tell me which is best? Thank you!
- Confused

A  Hi Confused,

Thank you for your question.

It's best to comb curly hair when your hair is wet or damp, definitely not dry. Always use a wide tooth comb as the hair is in a fragile state when wet and a wide tooth comb will not rip at the hair cuticle. Do not use a brush when your hair is wet as that will rip at the hair and cause breakage.

I hope I have helped.

Regards,
Serah Schuster
THS Hair Consultant

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Dramatic Color (December 2007)

Q  I've been dying my hair black for over two years now and I want a change, like a very vibrant red color. My hair has now faded to dark brown (almost my natural color) so I want to know if bleaching will be necessary in order to get such a dramatic color. Also, I can't really afford a salon treatment, would it be acceptable to attempt at home?
- Bec

A  Hi Bec,

Thank you for your question.

Bleaching may be necessary because your hair needs to be light enough for a vibrant red to show through. Putting a red color over the top of your faded black will not result in the desired red as it may still be too dark. I would not recommend this be done at home as it is a complicated process. I suggest that you make an appointment to see a professional hairstylist and ask them for a personal consultation, that way they can see exactly what condition your hair is in and you can show them exactly what color you desire and they'll be able to offer you advice on how to achieve it. They can also do a strand test that involves coloring a small section of hair (usually behind the ears) to test your condition and to see what coloring techniques would be the best option.

I hope I have helped.

Regards,
Serah Schuster
THS Hair Consultant

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Keeping Curls (November 2007)

Q  Hello,
I don't know what is wrong with my hair but for some reason curls will not stay in my hair at all! I have tried mousse and every variation of hair spray both before and after curling and still within an hour my hair is completely straight. I would love to be able to have sexy curls in my hair for work or going out somewhere, but I need to know how to keep them please!
- Curl Curious

A  Hi Curl Curious,

Have you tried setting your hair in rollers? Before setting, spray your hair with setting lotion (not hairspray) and then roll in your rollers, leave for approximately 15-20mins or until your hair is completely dry, and then unwind. Spray with hairspray to finish and you should have curls that will last more than an hour.

I hope I have helped.

Regards,
Serah Schuster
THS Hair Consultant

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Problem Part (October 2007)

Q  I have very thin hair and never can get it to do what I want. No matter what I try to do, it always parts in the middle. I can never seem to get the side bang thing going on. Is there any advice that you can give me?
- Amy

A  Hi Amy,

I would suggest trying shorter layers through the top to take weight off. That way you'll be able to sweep off that middle part. You can also try blow-drying your hair into place and spraying with hairspray to hold. Another option is to attempt a very soft perm which will not create any curl but more volume. You can do this by having the perm rollers placed on the side where you want your hair to part.

Side bangs will only sit well depending on the how the hairline naturally grows, for example, if you have a widows peak or cowlicks through that front hairline area then it will be very difficult to achieve side bangs.

I hope I have helped.

Regards,
Serah Schuster
THS Hair Consultant

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Too Much Toning (September 2007)

Q  I had blonde hair and my roots grew out so I went to my stylist for a touch up and she used a color to try to lighten my roots, and although it went light, it also went real brassy/orange looking. She tried a beige toner and a violet toner, but it didn't work, so a few days later I came back in and she foiled in some bleach to break up the brassiness, which did work, however it was still too orange for me so a friend suggested using Shimmer Lights shampoo. I did and it left some purple/gray in the lighter parts of my hair. How do I get rid of this?
- Alison

A  Hi Alison,

When you use color shampoo to tone your hair there is always a chance things may not go your way and it sounds to me like the purple tones in your hair may have been caused by too much toning from the Shimmer Lights shampoo.

This can sometimes happen and can easily be fixed with a few washes from a different shampoo. If this doesn't fix your color, I would suggest going back to your hairstylist so that she can take a look at the current tone, texture and elasticity of your hair in person and advise you on the right products to get the best results.

I hope I have helped.

Regards,
Paola Fioramonte
THS Hair Consultant

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How Do I Keep My Locks Thin? (August 2007)

Q  I have thick hair and my hairdresser always thins it out when styling it, but that only lasts a few days - weeks at tops - and I cannot afford to go every week. I always see products for thickening hair but never any for thinning. What can I do? I need to look smart for work but cannot spend hours blow-drying and styling my hair as I have two small children to sort out in the mornings.
- Ever Hopeful of Help

A  Hi Ever Hopeful,

It is impossible for your hair to grow out only a few days after being thinned so it sounds to me that when your hairstylist styles your hair, it is smoother than when you do it and makes your hair seem thinner. Unfortunately there is no shampoo that will make your hair thinner. Do you have a straightening iron? If you do, running it through your locks every few days will help to smooth your hair out and shouldn't take too long when your hair is dry and can even be done at night as it will stay straight while you sleep and leave you with more time to get ready in the morning!

I hope I have helped.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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Razor Scissors vs. Thinning Scissors (July 2007)

Q  What is the difference between the razor and thinning scissors (with the jagged teeth)? My hair is thin, however the density is medium. Should a hairdresser ever use thinning scissors on my hair? Would it be recommended to get a razor cut to add texture to a cut, rather than the thinning scissors on my hair type?
- Confused

A  Hi Confused,

Thank you for your question.

For your hair type I definitely wouldn't use the thinning scissors as they will purely thin your hair out (as the name suggests). Instead, I would recommend asking your hairdresser to use a razor as it will definitely add texture to your hair type.

I hope I have helped.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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Greasy Hair or Washed Hair - Which Gives Better Shape? (June 2007)

Q  Generally, is it good to leave your hair with a little grease or should I wash my hair frequently in order to have better shape?
- Afroditi

A  Hi Afroditi,

Thank you for your question.

If you are talking about sebum (which is the hair's natural oil) then it is fine to have a little in your hair because it will help to stop the hair from drying out.

Hair can become weighed down from too much oil, however, so it is a good idea to wash when you feel it is necessary.

I hope I have helped.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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Covering Blonde Foils With A Permanent Brown Color (May 2007)

Q  I have naturally dark brown hair (with some greys) and 3 weeks ago I had a full head of blonde foils done on my hair. I don't like it and already have regrowth and my hair is really dry. Is it okay to go over the blonde foils with a permanent brown color?
- Hayley

A  Hi Hayley,

Unfortunately when it comes to correcting blonde colors you cannot just cover the color over with another color. Pigment needs to be added back into your hair first; otherwise the end result will not be a nice color.

Covering over the blonde foils with a darker color is also not going to fix the condition of your hair because even though you have covered over the foils, the damage from them is still there.

I would recommend that you see your hairstylist so that they can get your hair back to the right condition and use the right color to cover your highlights.

Although you might not have enjoyed this experience with foils, I suggest that you don't rule them out completely. Grey hair tends to stand out more with darker hair colors and using foils is a great way to disguise them. And if the dryness still concerns you, you can always try just a few foils through your top section rather than foiling your entire head.

I hope I have helped.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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Suddenly Oily (April 2007)

Q  Recently my hair has been very oily- almost sticky- right after I wash and blow it dry. It doesn't happen all the time and varies on frequency; however I have tried a million different things to try and pinpoint what variable may be causing this. I have switched shampoos and conditioners, only conditioning the ends, not conditioning at all, changing brushes and combs, showered in different showers with different water (literally from one side of the country to the other!), yet there doesn't seem to be any kind of discernible factor that leads to the oily roots. My hair is very long, and I haven't treated/colored it in over a year. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it, but I'm out of ideas. Help!
- Jamie, NY

A  Hi Jamie,

There are a few things that can cause oily hair, and believe it or not, washing your hair can be one of them so I'd like to ask how often do you shampoo your hair? Every second day should be normal; however, some people need to shampoo their hair every day. If you find that your hair is getting oily after one day, then you should be shampooing it every day.

Another question I have is whether you are shampooing once or twice. I recommend that you do shampoo twice as doing it once will not always give you a total clean and can still leave oil on your scalp. Make sure when you are washing your hair that you scrub your scalp and focus mainly on this. When you rinse your hair out, the shampoo will then run through your ends and pick up all the impurities and wash them away when you rinse. Give this a go and see if your hair improves.

I hope I have helped.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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Problem Perm (March 2007)

Q  My hair is highlighted and permed. I got a really bad perm. The hairstylist did not wash the perm out good and my hair stinks. My hair is fried and looks horrible styled down. I need to know the very best products (shampoo, conditioners, and etc.) to use on my hair.
- Melissa

A  Hi Melissa,

Thank you for your question.

Because I cannot see your hair and judge it for myself, I would recommend that you see a stylist in person so that they can do a full evaluation on your hair and recommend the best products for you to use. These products should include a deep moisturizing treatment as well as a protein treatment. I would also recommend that you get your ends trimmed as they will not repair themselves once they have been badly chemically treated.

I hope I have helped.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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Puffy Hair Problems (February 2007)

Q  I have fine hair but have damaged it by ironing and coloring it. So, for the past 5 months I have not colored or used the iron on my hair, I don't even blow-dry it, I just let it dry naturally. But it still gets frizzy from the humid weather and really puffy from the cold as well. What can I do to stop my hair from getting so puffy and big?
- Jashira

A  Hi Jashira,

Thank you for your question.

To stop your hair from puffing up you need to use a smoothing product and I would recommend a cream as using a serum based product can result in oily hair.

To find the right product, I would suggest that you ask your stylist which smoothing cream is best for your hair as they can see your hair firsthand and make the right decision based on the texture and type of your hair.

For best results when styling, always remember to apply a small amount of product into the palms of your hands and then rub your hands together before running the product through the ends of your hair only. I hope I have helped.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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Taming Short / Fly-away Hairs (January 2007)

Q  I have thick, coarse, black hair which is naturally wavy/curly. Due to the texture of my hair it has a lot of cuts which result in short hairs that stick up at the top of my head. Do you have a suggestion for a product that I could use that could either prevent my hair from sticking up or remedy the situation? Thanks.
- Natasha

A  Hi Natasha,
The short hair that you have described sounds like broken strands of hair and can be tamed by spraying a very small amount of hairspray through your top section to smooth your hair down. Remember to use only a small amount to stop your hair from ending up with a crisp finish.

Because your hair is curly, I would recommend combing your hair only when it's wet and never using a brush as this will cause your hair to break further and give you frizzy ends.

To keep the breakage from re-occurring, I would recommend that you do a regular moisturizing treatment because curly hair is naturally very dry and needs more moisture than other types such as straight hair. The better condition your hair is in, the less breakage you will get.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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Amount of Shampoo vs. Length of Hair (December 2006)

Q  I recently went from long, waist length hair to shoulder length. Do I need to change the amount of shampoo I use?
- Talia, Ohio

A  Hi Talia,
When shampooing, we only need to use enough to rub through the scalp, because as you rinse, the shampoo will pick up any dirt through the ends. If you have been shampooing only your scalp, then you do not need to change the amount of shampoo that you currently use. If, however, you shampoo the rest of your hair as well as the scalp, then you are definitely using too much and need change the amount of shampoo that you use to focus only on the hair through your scalp.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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Adding Spice To Red Hair (November 2006)

Q  My hair is a real gingery color. Do you have any suggestions for adding some spice to red hair?
- Christine, Australia

A  Hi Christine,
Adding a slight change to ginger tones is great fun and you don't need to change the overall color to get a great result. Adding highlights and lowlights is the perfect way to add some spice and to enhance your naturally red tone. Try some very fine blonde pieces through the top or finer darker pieces throughout the hair in either brown or red tones.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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2-in-1 vs. Single Shampoo and Conditioner (October 2006)

Q  Is a 2-in-1 product just as good for cleaning my hair or should I stick to a separate shampoo and conditioner?
- Troy, Chicago

A  Hi Troy,
In order to keep your hair healthy and clean you need to shampoo to release dirt from the hair shaft and condition to close the cuticle and create a smoother, shinier finish. Using a 2-in-1 shampoo will mean that one of these steps will not be achieved properly, so, I would recommend sticking to a separate shampoo and conditioner to guarantee that your hair gets the thorough cleaning it needs.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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Best Conditioner for Greasy Roots and Dry Ends (September 2006)

Q  My hair is very greasy on the roots but totally dry on the ends. What's the best conditioner to use?
- Tanya, Seattle

A  Hi Tanya,
A problem such as this can occur for many reasons. The most common being that you could be putting too much conditioner in your hair. Conditioner only needs to go through the mid-lengths and the ends of the hair, and by applying it all over and through the roots you will most definitely be making your hair oily. I recommend cutting back on the amount of conditioner that you use and trying a conditioner made specifically for oily hair.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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Blow-Dryer Attachments (August 2006)

Q  I just bought a blow-dryer that has both a nozzle and diffuser attachment. What are they for?
- Sue-Ellen, Kansas

A  Hi Sue-Ellen,
The nozzle attachment is designed to help smooth the hair out while using your blow-dryer and a brush, and the diffuser is designed to help scrunch your hair into waves or curls and can also help to enhance your curls.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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Scared of Too Many Trims (July 2006)

Q  I have really long hair and don't like to get it trimmed too often because I don't want to lose the length. Is this bad for my hair?
- Julie, London

A  Hi Julie,
It is very important to trim your hair every 6 to 8 weeks to keep the hair in good condition and to prevent split ends. If you do not get your hair trimmed then it will start to split and break, which will make your hair shorter and shorter as time goes on. Once you get your hair trimmed regularly the length will get longer and your hair will become better conditioned.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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Hair Styling Products vs. Heat Protection Products (June 2006)

Q  I use my hair straightener everyday and need to know if using styling products alone will give me protection from the heat or if I should also be using a heat protection product?
- Kallie, Los Angeles

A  Hi Kallie,
Unfortunately styling products alone do not help protect your hair from the harsh heat of your straightening iron. So, the best thing to do is shop around for a Thermal Protection Spray. Ask your stylist to recommend which one would be best for your hair.

Regards,
Sarah Koessler
THS Hair Consultant

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Hair Color Enhancing Shampoo (May 2006)

Q  I've been told to use color enhancing shampoos but am unsure as to how often I'm supposed to use them. Any advice?
- Lisa, New York

A  Hi Lisa,
Color enhancing shampoos are designed to brighten up your existing color and are safe enough to use everytime you wash.

Regards,
Paola Fioramonte
THS Hair Consultant

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Styling Advice For Shorter Hair Lengths (April 2006)

Q  Most of my hair length is long, but I have a few short layers around my shoulders and my face that are taking forever to grow out. Do you have any styling advice for what I can do with my hair while I wait for it to reach all one length?
- Sarah, Boston

A  Hi Sarah,
Unfortunately there is not a lot you can do to make your hair grow faster and there are no miracle growth formulas either. Instead of getting frustrated when trying to grow your hair, the best thing to do is to try styles that will work with your hair while it's growing. Try blending the layers into your hair or try different ways to pin back or blow-dry your hair. This way you can use the layers to your advantage while growing them out, and who knows, you might even begin to like the layers. To try different looks to cater for your style while it is growing out, take a look at the range of styles available at TheHairStyler.com today.

Regards,
Paola Fioramonte
THS Hair Consultant

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Frizzy and Dry Hair (March 2006)

Q  I color my roots every 6 weeks and sometimes highlight my hair. Lately I have noticed that my hair is becoming frizzy and dry and I have to blow-dry my hair everyday or it will turn into a big frizz ball. Is there anything I can do?
- Laura, New York

A  Thanks for your question, Laura. Unfortunately there are no miracles for damaged hair and the best thing to do is try a very good shampoo and conditioner (for chemically treated hair), a heavy weekly treatment and a moisturizing hair crème. Cutting down on your blow-drying and hair coloring will also give your hair a break. I recommend seeing a hair stylist in person as they will be able to view the texture of your hair and can give you advice on the best products to use.

Regards,
Paola Fioramonte
THS Hair Consultant

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Hair Loss Worries (February 2006)

Q  I have colored my hair for about 5 years and lately I have noticed my hair is starting to fall out. Is there anything I can do to stop this from happening? Also, why it is happening? I am really starting to get worried.
- Jenny, Italy

A  Dear Jenny,
There are many reasons why we lose our hair. First of all, you should know that every person should expect to lose between 100-200 strands of hair a day and that hair loss can be stress-related or tied to an emotional problem. But as I am reading your letter, I can see that you may have a chemically treated problem. When chemically treating your hair (coloring, perming, chemically straightening etc) you should always remember one simple rule - always in moderation . If you color your hair too much you will damage and dry the hair out and it will become brittle and fall out.

Please try the following to help keep your hair healthy and shiny:
1) Pre-treat your hair with a treatment before coloring.
2) Use a shampoo and conditioner designed for colored hair.
3) Regularly use treatments once your hair is colored to stop your hair from drying out.
4) Continue to get regular trims to cut off the split ends.

I hope I was able to help. Good Luck!

Regards,
Paola Fioramonte
THS Hair Consultant

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